Wave jumping in Puerto Rico Photo by Jaimie Torres

Puerto Rico - it's a huge surprise that it doesn't get more crowded there than it does. But, that's a good thing. The windsurfing in Puerto Rico is a throwback to the '80s. Everybody knows everybody else, the conditions are great, the locals are excellent sailors, and there are no crowds. No doubt, the island offers variety you won't find in any other Caribbean destination: killer wave sailing, excellent free-riding spots and tons of racing action.

When To Go
The best time to go to Puerto Rico really depends on what you're after. If it's waves, December through April; for fun, anytime except the fall; and for flat-water blasting or racing, April through August.

The wave-sailing season starts off with the Christmas winds in December and tapers off in mid-April. Winds are somewhat inconsistent in the 10- to 25-knot range, blowing side-off to side-on, starboard-tack jumping. Waves up to mast high are usually generated by frontal systems coming off the East Coast of the U.S.

The North Atlantic high generates the trade winds that blow during late spring and summer at a steady 12 to 18 knots. The water gets flat, and the racers come out in full force.

Getting There
Take American Airlines to SJU from Dallas, the Northeast or Florida. The flights are direct and cheap and, if you don't want to rent, they'll take your equipment without a big fuss. There are no customs hassles, no funky currency exchanges and a language barrier that can be overcome with a little ingenuity. No excuse, really.

Where To Sail
Shacks
The entire northwest of the island is teeming with superb surfing and diving beaches and is rich with good wave-sailing spots. The most famous is Shacks, located in the town of Isabela. Conditions range from inviting to threatening and can change daily. It's windier there than anywhere on the north coast. If you only had one sail, it would be a 5.0.

Although Shacks might get by as an intermediate spot when the waves are small, it's definitely an experts-only break when the place goes off. The wave is hollow and pitches over a shallow and sharp coral reef. To the non-windsurfing members of the family, the reef offers incredible diving and snorkeling when calm. This is the only spot on the whole island where you can rent a place right on a wave-sailing beach overlooking the break. Imagine yourself waking up in a nice apartment at the cliff in Ho'okipa, and that's basically what you get at Shacks (minus a few sailors). If you're not renting there, you'll have a hell of a time finding a spot to park.

Surfer's Beach
Surfer's Beach, just west of Shacks on the north side of the military base in Aguadilla, is an easy-access spot that goes off often, and it's very sailable in northeast winds. The beach is easy to find once inside the base if you ask for directions. Its flat, rocky bottom is a lot more forgiving than Shacks, but the downwind shoreline is jagged rock and nasty. If you get caught on the inside and can't get out, get ready for a painful walk of shame. This beach is popular with surfers. Show them the respect they deserve to guarantee your good time.

Jobos
Just east of Shacks is Jobos. This beach is perfect for less experienced sailors. The access is easy and the reef is gentle. The east part of the beach is a bathing area protected by a rock outcropping. Surfers take off just off the rock on waves that peel left and right. Windsufers sail more toward the middle of the bay. There are plenty of restaurants and bars on the sand hill overlooking the beach. Happy Bellys restaurant is the best of the bunch. They serve a killer chicken quesadilla and have the coldest beer at a great price.

"A 4-mile-long barrier reef about a half-mile out provides some of the best wave sailing in Puerto Rico, with fantastic and uncrowded little breaks."

Punta Las Marias
The Punta Las Marias in the San Juan metro area must be the most underrated windsurfing area in the Atlantic. The northwest has to be really going off to get the spoiled locals to drive out of town to la Isla (out on the island). A 4-mile-long barrier reef about a half-mile out provides some of the best wave sailing in Puerto Rico, with fantastic and uncrowded little breaks. The most popular sail size is 5.8.

East Corner of Park Boulevard
A good launch from which to explore the wave-sailing possibilities is the east corner of Park Boulevard Street, about 3 miles west of the airport. It offers beachfront street parking, a rigging area and easy access to several of Puntas' clean breaks. The leftmost break, Sunset, is hardly ever sailed because it's so far downwind. It has a deep-water peeling right wave and holds a very big swell with ease.

Dominoes
Dominoes is popular only with the best sailors because it's very shallow. When it goes off, it's hollow and fast. This peak breaks both ways, just like Waimea, a break within easy reach directly in front of the launch. Waimea would be the perfect training wave spot if it weren't so far out. This gentle, forgiving wave breaks over a fairly deep reef that you'll never reach with your feet.

Puntas
Puntas is the easternmost reef and the most popular. Be sure you understand how the reef breaks before you go out. The inside part of the take-off is dry reef, and local knowledge is critical. The protected area inside the reef provides great free-ride cruising year-round. It's best in the summer when the locals trade in their wave boards for slalom equipment to enjoy powered 6.0 free-riding.

Caballos
The hard-core racers choose to cruise upwind about a mile to the Caballos. Caballos, the best big wave break in Puerto Rico, is located off the beach next to the San Juan Airport. This offshore wave will peel to the right up to double-mast high and end in a huge bowl that will swallow you alive if you don't kick out early! Luckily, it has a channel that allows you to get out in all but the biggest waves with almost no wind at all. This reef is a long (very long) swim back if you break down. Launch near the San Juan Plaza in Isla Verde.

South Coast
The south coast is fairly well known to local sailors but largely ignored by visiting windsurfers. With more than 60 miles of beaches, it's a pity because the sailing can be very rewarding to those willing to explore a bit. Wavetech (phone 787-848-6117), the great little windsurfing shop in the beautiful city of Ponce, has the scoop on all the good launch spots on that side of the island. They put together marvelous windsurfing picnic cruises to deserted islands in Guayama bay that are a real treat. Ponce, the second largest city on the island, is just over an hour directly south of San Juan on a toll highway.

On the southwest corner of Puerto Rico, you'll find La Parguera. This gorgeous area features dozens of mangrove islands and sand cays spread over 5 miles of shallow, clear water. The winds are a steady 15 to 20 knots just about every day. The access difficulties will be a small price to pay to sail among the unspoiled, stunning charm of these islands. A floaty free-riding or course-racing board will make exploring easy. The local shop is Ventolera (phone 787-808-0396), and they can point you in the right direction to the launches, nightspots and places to stay.

by Jaimie Torres