The Giant Niagara as it enters the gorge

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His drive to run the "deadly rapids" was fueled by what he now calls an "infantile machoism." He reflects, "We wanted to be the best kayakers that ever existed." With his previous big water runs of the New at 65,000 cfs, and the Colorado River's Cataract Canyon at 70,000 cfs, Spelius figured he was ready for the mountainous whitewater of Niagra, and he was right.

After a nerve-wracking visit to the daredevils museum near the falls (in which Lagergren's kayak now hangs) the two stealthily unloaded their boats into the woods near the river. Once on the water, the trivialities of the government's rules melted away, brilliant October light filled the canyon, and the paddlers shared a few pure moments of riverine splendor as they drifted toward the rapids. Back in the rat race on the canyon rim, the alarm had already been sounded, of course, and the pursuit of the kayakers had begun.

"It was just like playing the moose and wolf game as a kid...like being in a movie."

Spe and Lagergren were vaguely aware of the commotion above, but their full attention was demanded by the whitewater they entered. Giant flopping diagonals surged and broke from both sides. Lagergren was tossed in a spontaneous aerial cartwheel, and the phenomenal currents prevented him from rolling back upright. Spelius saw his companion swimming, but was unable to offer any help as he himself dealt with the powerful water. When a relative calm finally came, the two made it to shore on river left. They were past the bulk of the rapids with everything still intact.

The police, having lost track of the duo beneath the shelter of the canyon rim, assumed they had drowned. After a quick breather, Spe and Lagergren re-emerged into the mid-stream current, and the chase was on once again.

Passing the last rapid, they stashed their kayaks in the forest, and hiked out of the gorge. Upon reaching the rim, they immediately ran into one of the five police cars that was now in pursuit of the criminals. Lagergren was apprehended while Spe ducked back into the cover of the forested gorge. He recalls, "it was just like playing the moose and wolf game as a kid." The only problem was, Spelius was the moose, and at six feet four inches, he was about as invisible as a moose, too. Nevertheless, he climbed out of the canyon at a new location, and tried to blend with the throngs of tourists on the rim. He managed to remain undetected for a time, but when Spelius' trip photographer came by and hurriedly ushered Spelius into the getaway car, a good citizen squealed the suspicious activity to authorities. Spe was smartly dropped off at a nearby restaurant, and watched as police cruisers slowly prowled by outside. "It was like being in a movie," he recalls. His accomplice photographer returned to the s cene of Lagergren's bust, and was promptly arrested herself. As for Spe? The caption under Lagergren's museum bound boat says it all: "Kenneth Lagergren was the first to kayak the rapids in 1977, with a friend known only as Charles. Lagergren was arrested afterwards while Charles escaped."

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