Pages » 1 2
 |
Donkey Milk
photo: Mark Adams
Click on photo for more pics of Ecuador |
|
The next part of our adventure led us to the Napo Valley, home of the Rio Napo (a tributary of the Amazon) and the town of Tena--the apparent whitewater mecca of Ecuador. This part of the country is warmer and more humid, typical of what you would expect in a tropical country. Light rain came and went the entire week, not unlike in my hometown of Portland, Oregon but significantly warmer! This was definitely shortie weather. We spent three days on the Rio Misahualli, a technical run that is more narrow and lower volume than the Quijos. The Upper "Mis" gets more difficult as you go upstream, and we ran a couple of runs in the class IV-range with great advice on the lines by our guides. We paddlers inadvertently create a bit of a circus atmosphere as we put in, take out, and paddle next to small villages along the way. Without exception, all the locals that we encountered were friendly and curious--just be prepared for a small crowd gathering around your kayak.
The town of Tena entertained us with several other attractions. We stayed in a riverside air-conditioned hotel, shopped from a local craftsman who carved kayaks (among other figures) from tropical nuts and wood, and dined at a gourmet restaurant run by a gracious Columbian couple with a pet sloth. Our musicians Michele and Eric purchased a brand new guitar for $38 that provided the all-important evening entertainment and remains in Ecuador for future visitors. Our other river run in this area was the Jatunyacu, a classic class III "big water" run with tons of play waves, even though the water level was a bit lower than we expected. We had the treat of staying at a jungle lodge complete with the requisite wildlife as well as tropical flora and fauna.
Tired but still enthusiastic, the next morning we visited the "Jardin de Mariposas" (butterfly garden) that is run by a local company committed to raising thousands of butterflies and releasing them into the wild. Afterwards we returned to the Quijos Valley for another exhilarating run down El Chaco Canyon before wrapping up our kayaking week. It was a sad farewell to our local farm hosts Carmen and Ramon, but we consoled ourselves with a hot soak at Papallacta, a well developed hot springs with a series of pools and hot showers surrounded by volcanic mountain views. Accessible from Quito by bus, these springs are a great way to sooth those kayaking muscles and reflect on the great people and rivers that highlighted our week in Ecuador.
Back in Quito we were treated to continuous rainfall, a visit to the Old Town section of Quito, and an excellent farewell dinner hosted by the DeRiemers. We were grateful for their incredible teaching skills, and uncanny perception in identifying technique improvements, and their sincere (and humorous) love for kayaking and Ecuador. Don't stall if you're thinking about taking a similar trip! As long as you work on that combat roll, pick a great guide, and read up on the country, you're guaranteed to have a great time.
The Kayaker's Guide to Ecuador by Don Beveridge, Nancy Hiemstra, & Larry Vermeeren.
The Panama Hat Trail and Savages (non-fiction books with great insight into the Ecuadorian culture and history).
