October 27, 2003
|
Eratap Lagoon
Photo courtesy of P.Media
Click on photo for more South Pacific pics
|
Is it the talk of dugongs and salt water crocodiles? Is it that you're in a boat guided by a large man that does not speak too much English?
Is it the warning that they gave as you left about the waves at the opening of the bay? Or is it that you are just miles from anywhere that you feel a
little out of your depth?
The South Pacific is full of places that are perfect, but one of them, one that is not very well know is a little place over an hour out of Port Vila
the locals call Eratap lagoon.
We joined a group of locals who run a kayak safari called Cutting Edge. With a mixture of inflatable kayaks and some plastic sit-on-tops we ventured out.
The locals, who have spent their whole lives paddling from one spot to another and seemed to be built like the front row of an NFL team, set a steady pace.
There was slight warm trade wind that helped move us in the right direction. We headed to the entrance of the lagoon and I was surprised to see the size
of the waves breaking in distance. Through pointing, bug eyes and a slight look of terror, the guides smiled and pointed in the other direction and through
smiling teeth said "Sea him quiet over-dear". And sure enough the sea was a little quieter over to where he was pointing. We pushed on through the swell
lines, some of which where breaking but nothing too serious. However, I did keep my eyes on the horizon as the last thing this far from civilization I
needed was a wave rub on the coral.
In the middle of nowhere the guides stopped and jumped in the water. They encouraged us all to do the same and from a bag produced snorkel masks and fins
and handed them around. Diving down directly over a large sea anemone, we saw scores of clown fish who showed no fear at all and swam towards us. Feeling
confident, I ventured a little lower and closer to the anemone, only to have a small fish the size of a mouse bite me on the lip. Ok, it was only
a nip but, underwater, miles from anywhere..this could have been a poisonous fish! There was no sympathetic
support at the surface as everyone had been watching my encounter and the level of laughter from the locals put my panic to rest.
After others had venture down to the small version of Jaws we continued our paddle. The guides were quick to point out islands and their significants,
told us of resident dugongs that came to feed on the sea grass and dolphins that were often found in the lagoon. One of the guides then waved good-bye
and paddled off in another direction. I asked where he was going and his mates laughed.
We continued paddling in the clear, calm water, while the fish jumped, the
sun shone and the light trade winds blew. In the distance like some scene from Castaway you could see a few swaying palm trees and a small island.
Castaway Island the guide pronounced and we all headed towards it. As we pulled up on the white sand beach, the scene was breathtaking, and there
was the most unusual smell in the air. As we drew the kayaks up on the beach out from the palm trees came the missing guide. "Lunch belong you" he
pointed to the trees. We wandered over and there amongst lush vegetation and coconut palms was a small table and a bar-b-que lunch. Crayfish, fish,
and steak...this was not roughing it!.
After gorging for awhile we lazed on the white beach, listening to the surf and playing in the small waves. In the distance you could hear the huge
waves breaking and see the white lines on the horizon.
Through the rest of the day's paddle we visited local gravesites, saw coconut crabs, visited a small village, and paddled some of the most pristine
water in the world.
When away in the South Pacific, if you can get out of the main town, out of the cities, away from the tourist hype, you can find some amazing places that are
easy to get to and well worth the effort.
EMAIL THIS STORY TO A FRIEND
Courtesy of New Zealand Adventure
