A chat with adventure extraordinaires Heather and Brandon Nelson
February 1, 2004
Pages » 1 2 Lake Baikal Photogallery
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Photo by Heather Nelson |
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Editor's Note: Since the pair first met in California in 1998, Brandon and Heather Nelson have been chasing dreams and adventures. In the
summer of 2000, they cycled the length of the Continental Divide and then paddled the length of the Sea of Cortez. Since then,
the two have racked up other experiences such as the Yukon Quest, The WaterTribe Lake Michigan Challenge, and most
recently, sea kayaking Lake Baikal, the earth's largest lake.
WD: You both recently completed the Around Baikal expedition. Why did you choose Lake Baikal?
Heather: Brandon discovered Baikal, so I will let him answer that one.
Brandon: After we finished 'Canada to Cabo' I took a job writing features for a newspaper in California. You know, I thought I'd settle down
with an office job for a couple years. Well, during my second month there, I get a press release that mentioned a Siberian sister to Lake
Tahoe, this monster called Lake Baikal. I'd never heard of it before, but after about ten minutes of Internet research I knew I'd just
discovered the locale of our next expedition. "Biggest, deepest, oldest, clearest, stormiest, most biologically diverse lake in the world."
As soon as I read those words I was hooked. I think I lasted about another week at the paper, but my research on Baikal didn't end. It still
hasn't.
WD:What was the most difficult part of this trip?
Heather: The most difficult part is always coming home. It is so comfortable and so simple to live out of a boat or bike or pack. On an
expedition I worry about food, water, shelter and safety. The people living on Baikal are self-sustained woodsmen. They have nothing material
to give you, but would give you their bed or their last piece of fish or bread. Coming home to the shock of fast paced American life takes a
bit of getting used too.
Brandon: We said before we ever left U.S. soil, if we can get our selves, our kayaks and all our gear to the shore of Lake Baikal, put in, and
take the first few strokes, we'll call the expedition a success. For us this has been the crux of all our projects: putting them together,
raising funds, sponsorship, visas, and on and on. It's fun in its own way and it's getting easier each time, but it makes the actual paddling
and camping seem easy.
WD: Describe the most poignant moment of this trip - a moment that made the whole thing worthwhile.
Heather: Every moment of the trip was magical. Lake Baikal is a very mystical, spiritual place. But, it was the end of our journey that made
the trip all worthwhile. As thanks for all the help our host family had given us we had agreed to leave our boats and paddling gear behind as
a gift. Upon our return to the village after completing the circumnavigation, Brandon and I spent a few days resting and packing for the flight
home. The children of the village spent hours just sitting in the boats on land, paddles in their hands, pretending to kayak around. One
little girl sat in the hatch playing a harmonica we had given her while her brother sat in the cockpit paddling. Those are the memories
burned in my mind forever!
Brandon: I wouldn't have said this out loud while we were on the lake, but I wanted to experience the legendary fury of Baikal, to feel the
force of the Sarma or one of the other 30 named winds that explode like a hurricane. We got hit hard around day 20, but we'd watched it build
all day and were lashed down and tucked into camp when it hit. On day 67, though, I got my wish. We basically got caught between 60-70 mph
winds and a good sized surf landing onto boulders. Fortunately we both got off the water unhurt, but we spent the rest of the day in our
drysuits running around on the beach, just being in the storm, measuring the wind, taking pictures. That day was unforgettable.
WD: Some couples would be reluctant (or unable) to undertake such a long and arduous journey with their significant other. How do you make
sure you don't end up killing each other?
Heather: Brandon and I are at our most comfortable when we are in the wilderness, far away from the hustle and bustle of city life. We rely
on each other and each other's strengths. We completely trust and respect each other. I know how lucky I am to have a husband who not only
supports my crazy dreams and passions, but no matter where my ideas take me, he will be by my side ready to charge!
Brandon: You have to keep in mind that when we're exploring or racing together, we're doing what we love most in life. I think a lot of people
misinterpret the word "expedition" to automatically mean "pain and suffering." For us, being out on Baikal or on our bikes in the Rockies,
wherever, that's as high-quality and comfortable as life gets, so our relationship is usually at its strongest. It's when we're home dealing
with the day to day grind that we get nit-picky and edgy with each other.
WD:Both of you have done a number of expeditions - what drives you to undertake such adventures?
Heather: It is what we love. Life is too precious not to follow your dreams. When we decided to do our first expedition the overwhelming
response from people we told was "Do it while you are young" or "I wish I had done something like that." That really inspired me to prove
anyone can have a dream and make it happen. Neither Brandon nor I had ever been in a sea kayak before we built two wooden kayaks and paddled
the 900 miles of the Sea of Cortez. One of Brandon and my's greatest inspirations is a legendary paddler named Verlen Kruger. To celebrate
his 80th birthday he and his 78 year old wife decided to paddle the 2000 mile Yukon River! That is what life is all about!
Brandon: It's partly about being out in the wilds for weeks or months at a time. You reach a point where you're just resonating with the wind,
with the swell; you know where the moon is even in mid-day; you can spot Orion and know how many more hours 'til dawn. And it's also about
having time to read and write and stretch and fish, the things we don't make time for when we're home. Expeditions recharge the batteries.
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