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I made it the whole way to Pontoise that day, but not before nightfall. My legs
were absolutely paralyzed by the time I got there, and my bladder was bursting
so that I couldn’t get out of the kayak without a disaster. There was a barge
moored to the river bank just ahead of the bridge that was to be my refuge for
the night. But to get out of the kayak and onto the towpath under the bridge
looked just about impossible. The barge had a dinghy tied to its stern, so I
decided to ease myself out of the kayak and into the dinghy. From this vantage
I would be able to stand up and finally relieve myself.
Halfway through my relief, the barge skipper’s wife, having heard me clunking
around, came to the stern of her vessel and caught me with a flashlight. She
screamed her anger at me – in German, if you please – and I fell into the
river. Using my kayak as a raft, I struggled to the bank and crept under the
sheltering bridge. There I lay down, blocked everything out of my mind, and
simply fell asleep.
But not for long. There was a flashlight in my face, waking and blinding me.
There’s going to be a fight, I thought, as I heard a man’s voice behind the
flashlight. It was in German again. Swinging my legs around, with my back now
pressing the wall, I got ready. But no, the voice was trying to communicate
rather than intimidate. I responded in French. The man did not speak it, but he
lowered his flashlight and beckoned me to follow him. So I did, after rummaging
around to gather some food and clothing.
He led me along the towpath onto his barge. Through a hatch in the fo’c’sle, we
descended into a tiny cabin for crew, where he showed me the bunk and a stove
with pots and pans for cooking. He indicated I should take off my wet clothes
and left me there, soon to return with hot water, towels and coffee. Then he
took my filthy trousers and shirt away from me and said, “Gute Nacht.”
At five-thirty the next morning, the wife brought me hot water, coffee, and my
clothes, clean and dry. By six o’clock, the barge had been cast off from the
bank, and I was ready to continue my odyssey. I paddled on through another day,
then another. Where l’Oise met the Seine, I turned left and made my way to the
outskirts of Paris. By now I was down to telephone money. When I reached Pont
de Neuilly, late in the afternoon, I placed a call to the Paris Office of The
Daily Express.
My phone call was taken by a young reporter named Nicholas Tomalin who said
he’d come out at once to meet me. We agreed to rendezvous on the pavement where
the bridge meets the right bank. The kayak was under the bridge by one of the
midstream foundations supports where no one could see it from either bank. I
had landed with difficulty on this narrow concrete slab because there was a
maintenance stairway from it up to the bridge. A group of Algerians were
holding a meeting in this secret place. Frightened by my sudden appearance,
they were much relieved when I greeted them with words from the Koran.
I remember Nicholas well. He was about 25, my age, with cheerful good looks. He
arrived in a taxi and we walked a couple of blocks to a bar where he ordered
two beers and a huge loaf sandwich for me. I told him I was stoney broke, and
that The Daily Express had guaranteed me 50 pounds if I made it to Paris by
kayak. He said he’s look into it for me, but meanwhile he definitely wanted my
story, and was happy to take care of my immediate needs, a razor and
subsistence for a couple of days.
He offered to telephone my friend Nicholas in London to let him know that I’d
arrived safely. He also asked me lots of questions about Camilla, and since I
didn’t have a phone number for her, I asked him to get this from Nicholas. And
then we made a plan for the next day, for my arrival in the heart of Paris,
because, being a keen reporter, he wanted to create a photo opportunity.
We agreed to meet at mid-day at Pont Alexandre Trois, an ornate old bridge with
the boat hostel of the Touring Club de France right by it. And the reporter
said he would book me into this hostel for the next night. But he asked me,
emphatically, not to talk to any other newspaper reporters because it could
ruin his story. Knowing full well where my bread and butter was coming from, I
agreed.
I bought a razor and some bread and grapes. Then I went back to the bridge,
made sure no police were in the area, and sneaked over the bridge balustrade to
regain the stairway down to my kayak. The Algerians had gone and the kayak was
safe. There I slept well, and in the morning, found myself with a new set of
companions; several hobos had moved in during the night. Not one of them
stirred while I shaved in the river, ate bread and grapes with my coffee, and
got ready for the last little leg of the journey. It was not a bad way to enter
Paris for the first time, I thought, while paddling without haste towards my
appointment.
I reached the bridge hours ahead of schedule. But at the right time, Nicholas
and his photographer arrived. I performed several “arrival” landings for them.
The reporter expressed disappointment that I looked so clean, and was anxious
to know if I had spoken with any possible rival. I assured him that his turf
was secure.
From the bridge we went to a bar frequented by all the English speaking press
in Paris. Here we ate well and drank wine. Then Nicholas took me back to the
Touring Club de France, where he broke the news. No one in the Paris office of
The Daily Express was aware of any obligation to me; Nicholas Vaux had sent my
clothes and they should be waiting for me at the American Express office; but
Camilla Vaux had left Paris and was now residing in Grenoble.