Franz Olry at Playa
Larga
Photo courtesy of Alex Jowett
Señor Castro and the Cuban dream...fat
cigars and even fatter cars...rum, Romantico and the only way to go
to Varadero...beach that is...back to the future and lost in the
fifties we lived, The Real Cuban Dream!
At the customs desk while entering Cuba, via La Habana, the
customs agent began with the usual barrage of questions.
"Citizenship?"
"Canadian!"
"You speak Spanish?"
"Yes!"
"Why?"
"Because I'm a photographer and I travel a lot?"
"Why do you have so many stamps in your passport?"
"Because I'm a photographer and I travel a lot!"
"What are you doing here?"
"I'm a photographer, I travel a lot?"
Her lack of hearing had caused me to answer like an automaton!
Oh well, at least I didn't have to pay anything at that desk, or so
that's what the sign I read said. I was in Cuba to travel around
with Franz Olry, a man quickly becoming a legend in the young sport
of kiteboarding, and take some of the first kiteboarding photos in
Cuba. I was more than a little excited to see what Franz had
checked out already. He had been in Cuba for a few days, supposedly
scouting out some good locales...Like I say...Supposedly.
I picked up my luggage and cruised out to the passenger pickup
where Franz and his entourage of extended family (his girlfriend is
Cuban) were waiting for me. After quick greetings and introductions
we headed out to the car, a 1956 funky, red,
Buick-something-or-other. The symbol of American post-war opulence
still surviving in one of the last truly Marxist states. The irony
of it all still makes me chuckle; in a country where most people
can't afford to fill up one of these cars with gas, these behemoths
still live on. Some of the cars are modified to a certain degree;
the one we were in was fixed to run off either gas or
kerosene...Kerosene?
As we settled into the long drive from Habana to
Perico..."Perico?" I asked, not being familiar with the town after
all my perusals of Cuba's coastal towns.
"Uh yeah," Franz said "Perico is kind of in the middle of
Cuba."
"So you're going kiting on some lakes then?"
"I don't know, maybe hunh!"
"Que?" I was perplexed.
"Ahh, don't worry we'll go to the coast, it's only about an hour
and a bits drive either way!" he answered.
"Oh, is that all!?"
Visions of getting completely skunked popped into my head...Oh
well, at least I figured I could get some cool photos of the
cars.
Roughly fours hours after leaving La Habana we arrived in
Perico, a sleepy little hamlet almost dead in the center of
Cuba.ÉAt least I could still get photos of the cars, I thought
again. Since it was Sunday night, the last night of the disco for
the week, we showered, changed and headed out right away. Party we
did!
I woke up the next morning as if in a dream. I felt as though I
had been thrown back in time, to somewhere in the late
fifties...the hairstyles, cars, barber shops, and fashions were all
of a fifties sensibility. A little coffee and oranges woke me up
enough to remind myself that I was just in Cuba.
While not actually in the fifties, Cuba certainly is
surreal. Life seems to have slowed down so much that it still feels
as though you're living in another time—a strange kind of Rip
Van Winkle effect on the entire country. When Franz and I went for
a walk around the town it was hard to feel like we had any chance
of blending in. We were a bit more like two kids from the future
running around in the past, much like Michael J. Fox in the movie
Back to the Future. Our flashy surfer-wear didn't quite
blend in with the straw hats and faded blue Guajiro style of the
locals. I decided to ask Franz again if we were going to go kiting
at all while in Cuba.
"Yeah, I think we should, hunh...Maybe tomorrow we'll go to
Varadero...It's nice here in Perico, eh, I like it!"
While it certainly was nice there I was afraid that if I
stayed too long I'd be pomading my hair and smoking fat cigars
before long. Luckily we did go to Varadero the next day.
As we drove to Varadero we passed by endless fields of cane,
orange trees and rice, those being some of the staples of the Cuban
economy. For what seemed like hours on the road, our old cruiser
lumbered along while our host family, including the mother and
boyfriend, and sister and boyfriend of Franz's girlfriend, and I,
listened to endless amounts of the local favorite
music...Romantico.