Whitewater
Classics
Editor's Note: The following is an excerpt from the book
Whitewater Classics, Fifty North American Rivers
Picked by the Continent's Leading Paddlers.
***
The Susitna River is vintage Alaska - big, wild, and filled with
stories of adventure. The river starts in a stark landscape of rock
and ice at the foot of the Alaska Range, then winds through the
spruce-covered Alaskan interior for nearly 300 miles, growing into
a moving gray sea of over 100,000 cfs before reaching the Cook
Inlet near the city of Anchorage.
A run down the Susitna would be nothing more than a typical
wilderness float trip were it not for one 11-mile section of the
river ominously known as Devil's Canyon. Here the cold silty
Susitna explodes into a minefield of holes, giant exploding waves,
and unruly whirlpools. The first and most storied rapid of the
canyon is Devil Creek, a drop that nearly brought disaster on the
first descent of the river.
It was the summer of 1970 when adventurers Jack Hession and Dave
Christie put in near the river's source at the convenient Denali
Highway bridge. The duo had anticipated some whitewater on the
river, but planned to portage their canvas Klepper kayaks around
anything significant. Running big rapids was not the focus of their
trip, they simply wanted an adventure in Terra Incognita. They
found it.
At class III-IV Watana Canyon 64 miles below the put-in, they
found the first of the expected rapids, and portaged without
mishap. Roughly 60 miles below this first short canyon, Christie
swam out of a hole in a class III rapid. Hession was right there
for the rescue, but progress toward shore was slow and laborious as
he towed Christie and his water-logged boat. The huge, swift
Susitna swept them downstream. Boulders and the river's big
swirling eddylines prevented them from making shore, and the rescue
dragged on. As they rounded a bend, the jet-like roar of Devil
Creek Rapid suddenly put a heightened urgency to the scene, and
Hession yelled at Christie to let go of the boat they were towing.
Fatigue now wearing on both men, they paddled and kicked for shore
at frantic speed with the last of their energies. At the brink of
the rapid, Hession got his bow onto a submerged ledge as Christie
lunged for shore and scrambled to his feet. Hession's boat began to
slip off the rock, but Christie grabbed it and hauled it onto the
bank where both men sat and let the realization of their near miss
sink in.
Four days later, they staggered out of the woods at the lonely
railway stop of Gold Creek. Christie had been forced to make the
wilderness march barefoot.
Two years later, Hession paddled with Walt Blackadar while the
famous Idahoan was on a paddling trip in Alaska, and it wasn't long
before Blackadar had his eye on the Susitna. Following a
nerve-wracking, treetop buzzing overflight of the canyon with
legendary bush pilot Cliff Hudson, Blackadar drove to the put-in
and launched on the mighty Susitna with Kay Swanson and Roger
Hazelwood.
Four days later, they arrived at Devil Creek Rapid late in the
afternoon. Blackadar took one good look at the big water mess and
proclaimed, "If you're running that, you're running it by
yourselves." That was enough for Hazelwood and Swanson. Despite
being behind schedule, with a search plane due to arrive in 36
hours if they didn't make the take-out on time, they decided to
make the long portage up and around the rapid.
After a few hours' sleep, they began the portage at 3 A.M. in
the northern twilight. Following an arduous six hours of boat
hauling, and a good dose of hairball boating, the threesome got out
to scout yet another rapid as afternoon turned into evening. The
river roared in a continuous series of massive waves that led out
of sight into an ever narrowing canyon. The sun shone a blinding
glare, casting dark shadows on the walls of the gorge, and
illuminating the spray from the huge restless pulsing waves. The
scene was terribly intimidating. There was talk of camping right
there in the canyon's last open spot, and waiting for the search
pilot to find them the next day, but Blackadar quickly discarded
the idea. He growled, "I'm not having anyone come in after me," and
returned to his boat. Hazelwood followed, and Swanson paddled
third.
As Hazelwood crested one of the 20-foot waves of the rapid, he
saw Blackadar in front of him, caught side surfing in a huge hole.
Hazelwood barely missed hitting Walt, flipped over, and rolled up
below the hole. He had made it through, but he was now in the lead,
and bombing down a freight train of unknown water. He stroked for
the first eddy he could reach, and caught a small surging pocket
against the right cliff just above an awful looking drop. A tense
minute later, he heard the voice of Blackadar yelling from
upstream, "Swim, Kay, swim!" It seems Kay had also gone for a ride
in the big hole, and now he and Blackadar were in a desperate
rescue attempt. They flushed by Hazelwood, and were out of sight,
around a corner.
Blackadar and Swanson flushed through the rapid below
Hazelwood's eddy, made it to shore, and paddled the diminishing
rapids to the take out, but Hazelwood knew none of this. He felt
one or both of his partners had surely drowned in the terminal
looking rapid below him, and any attempt to give chase would only
result in another victim. Hazelwood delicately climbed out of his
kayak onto the near-vertical cliff, and spent a fitful night of
sleep roped to a narrow ledge above the water. The next day, he
scrambled out of the canyon, and was prepared to start his survival
hike downstream when an Air Force helicopter swooped in and plucked
him out of his predicament. In the front seat of the chopper was a
grinning Blackadar, giving a thumbs up.